Desserts like banana pudding, pecan pie, and chocolate sheet cake, made by Bexar’s in-house baker, Leann Hughes, reflect the same classic aesthetic as the barbecue. The ribs were tender, and it was refreshing to get a savory rib when the embrace of the sweet glaze has become nearly universal. The brisket’s black pepper bark was stout with a bit of a crunch-it’s smoked along with everything else in a pair of Cookshack rotisserie smokers fed by wood pellets rather than logs. Justin keeps the seasoning simple on the brisket and the pork ribs as well. It’s seasoned with a blend of salt, black pepper, and garlic, which makes for a traditional Texas-style link with great snap. The actual sausage on the menu is a blend of beef and pork made with trimmings from the briskets and pork spareribs. Given that his restaurant’s name is an homage to Justin’s upbringing, he chose to mimic that pronunciation. That business used the hard x pronunciation, as I confirmed via its voicemail greeting. Justin grew up east of San Antonio near the Bexar Bowling Society. I should note the name of the restaurant is pronounced with a hard x, just as it’s spelled, and not like the county that’s home to San Antonio. The pandemic was going to be challenge for every restaurateur, but at least the Haeckers could plan for the new normal before opening. In hindsight, the timing of the restaurant’s opening “was kind of a blessing in disguise,” Justin said. He had just abandoned his career in oil and gas, which kept him on a rig in the Gulf of Mexico for as long as five weeks at a time. “We were already so deep, there was no turning back,” Justin said. I asked Justin if the prospect of opening a restaurant in what would be a changed world gave the couple pause. After socking away all of their profits in a restaurant fund for a few years, they were able to open Bexar Barbecue in Tomball in June 2020, providing one more excuse for a suburban barbecue crawl.Ĭonstruction on the restaurant began two months before the coronavirus pandemic hit. “I sold any way possible,” Justin said, including in the signature Bristick, which featured sauce-doused sliced brisket and Hawaiian rolls speared onto a wooden skewer. Two months later, the Haeckers set up their Bexar County Brisket tent at the Saturday farmers’ market held in the middle of Tomball. I first wrote about Tejas Chocolate + Barbecue in Tomball back in January 2016, before it made repeat appearances in our last two Top 50 barbecue lists. Before Tomball became a barbecue destination, Justin and Kathyrn Haecker began to slowly build their barbecue dream in the small suburb northwest of Houston.
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